Day 6 – A Day of Connection to My Roots

Today we started off on our adventures a little close to home. We went past my grandmother’s old house where she grew up. I almost bought it last time I was here as it was for sale, and IT STILL IS! Although, I don’t think I will buy it this time. We first went to Võru cemetery where my mum knew her great grandparents were buried. We had to stop at the little green hut to ask about where they were. In their records it was Behrke, not Gehrke but never the less, they were found. It was so surreal being where my great great grandparents on my mum’s fathers side were buried. The cemeteries there are built in the middle of forests so there is so much beautiful greenery around and they are generally kept well. We put some candles on their graves, which did look like flower beds, and showed our respect. It was nice to see they were almost like a little flower bed. My nephew Lekso called us in that moment and we showed him the flower bed graves, thankfully he understands what it means to be in the ground. Watching his eyes all lit up at the vast forest he could see, he must be my nephew because I get the same child like wonder and awe when I see the Estonian forest, especially in southern Estonia.

​We then left there to go to one of our favourite Käsitöö shops in Rõuge. We thought it was closed the day before but we did not take the time to walk around the back to their new entry. This time we did and it was probably better because we found a bag of chantarelles there for only 5 euro! And some beautiful home made black bread! We were on the hunt for some belts to add to the Australian folk costume library for a good price, we did find some! They were beautiful. We have not yet decided if they were for us or for the library but either way, they are coming home with us! We saw a lady weaving some rugs on a big loom, similar to the one my great grandmother used to make the folk costumes in Australia. It was so lovely to watch, almost mesmerising! 

​After this little stop we headed to another cemetery where my great grandfather Osvald Ellamaa is buried. We came from the other end of the cemetery than we usually get, as we thought it was a little closer, turns out it is in the middle. We had to get to tap “3” then go 64m in. Dad was not to sure where it was, however I focused for a moment then pointed it out. I think I did this last time, there is definitely a connection there. This is the grandfather that grew up in Setomoaa region, where I feel a deep connection. It was like visiting him. It was lovely to see the grave so clear around him. He has a freedom cross and on a list of people who receive this, and there is a group of people in Estonia who go around caretaking their graves and I think we also have some family that do this too. I am so grateful. Dad cleaned the stones and I have never noticed this but he had an oak leaf engraved on this tomb stone, the one laying on top of him. No wonder oak trees are so healing for me! It was another lovely cemetery to be in, so much forest, trees, nature, not to mention the mosquitos! But I really enjoyed that stop. We then headed off to my great grandparents summer house in Miikse. This house is very old, abandoned and a little bit haunted. We only looked at it from a far. Two years ago my mum could get close to it, this time there was no way this was possible. 

​It was getting late and almost lunch time so we headed to Obinitsa Talu, or farm house for lunch. I had fond memories from this place last time on the day mum and I set out to explore Setomaa in a way we had not done before. The food was wonderful, the people were kind and hospitable and I was even recognised by someone here in relation to the Estonian Children’s Summer Camp! We have stayed in touch, and she has been helping me a little here to stay connected to Setomaa. Johanna is wonderful and I am very grateful for her friendship. So we arrived and it was full of a bus load and they were doing some traditional Seto ceremony with one of the men where you take a small sip of a very strong alcohol beverage and hand it back to the man and wish him well, then eat a pickle. Setomaa is probably the most religious area of Estonia with some beautiful traditions. There is also a wonder like magic in this area with a lot of spirituality and connection to the world around. I just adore being in Setomaa, it is like coming home. My nervous system, DNA, everything, just recognises it as being home, feeling safe, familiar and grounded. I adore it. I will go there every chance I get. It really is like being in a different world! After we had lunch we went to the museum on the other side of the road where the man who owns it made mum’s Seto jewellery and he remembered us. We actually called out to him as he was riding his bike away as we arrived into Obinitsa and he remembered us straight away. We saw his wife had been making more ribbons for the back of the head pieces we wear with our Seto folk costume and just had to get some more. She had some pinks and purples, so how could I not?!

​After this little adventure we went to Värska museum. Previously when we were here they had a whole heap of Seto folk costume elements however there was not a lot, it was being saved for the Seto Leelo Festival, which I decided I am going to attend, more on that in a few days. We saw some lovely items for sale, especially the head pieces but I really like the one I have, well I have three but usually only wear one in particular. It should also be known that Dad had one job on this day, and that was to look after the Seto mug for any photo opportunity with Seto items and my Estonian Designs AU cup. He took this job very seriously and when ever we got out of the car, he had the mug with him. We had it at the museum and took a few photos there. He really is supporting my business and I am do grateful! What I like about being in this area is how the forest is, it is a little different to other forest areas and just feels so magical. It make me want to walk through it, explore it, connect with it and just be. I adore it!

​After we left here, we started heading back to Võru but on the way we had to stop at Pindi, where my mum’s fathers mother was born and grew up, her name was Rosalie. We only really could see a sign as there did not look like there was a town anywhere. Mum did not get a photo las time so we had to take the opportunity and come to a sudden stop while driving 90km/hr, with a car behind me, thankfully I could do it safely. We then headed back to Tiiu’s house for a little rest before I asked dad if he wanted to go for a walk to the lake. We were told we had to be back by 7pm for dinner as mum and Tiiu were cooking a delicious Estonian dinner, including the chantarelles we bought earlier. We set off and I have been wanting to take a photo of the fence that was near Tiiu’s house, which has been there since I can remember, and I have now found out it was Vana-Võru which does not exist anymore, it is now in Hargla. But it was Vana-Võru when my grandparents lived here, which is something very special to me. Dad and I walked down to the lake and around the block. Dad was looked at all the architecture and noticed some of the pipes have heating wires coming out of it, for the winter so they don’t freeze over. The lake was beautiful, I remember going there with my grandmother Silvi when I was 11 and swimming, however they have made it a bit more modern now. Dad and I headed back towards Tiiu’s place, through the town square, ready for dinner. Dad and I were giving Tiiu a little bit of a hard time because dinner was not ready at 7pm, she is fun to mess with even though I don’t always understand her. I really adore her and it is so good to catch up with her.
Until tomorrow
Marissa xx