Day 8 – Setomaa and Cultural Connections

​Today started out like any other day, breakfast then we headed to a shopping centre to get a few things for the party in the evening. When we were in the supermarket we saw some products that I had many years ago, 20 years ago when I lived here. It still blows my mind that it was that long ago and this cultural connection has grown stronger and stronger every time. There was the spices to make the meat and potato mix I used to have in the cafeteria when I was in high school, which I really like. I liked seeing the milk with Estonian folk costume skirt, apparently this is only for the song and dance festival. Once we were finished in the supermarket, I met with Maria, a lady I connected with on facebook, to head to Setomaa Leelopäev. While we were on the drive down I noticed we were going through Põlva. I also remembered I had one of my pens with this design on it, and the sign was so pretty I had to stop and take a photo! Thankfully Maria understood and went along for the ride. I really liked Põlva, it is a nice little village, but we kept on driving to Setomaa, Värska to be more specific.

​We got there and the party had already started. It was incredible to see so many people in Seto Rahvariide, so many different variations. When we arrived, even before we went into the event, one of the lovely ladies I met last year already recognised me. This really gave me such a warm feeling of coming home. It was so wonderful to be embraced by a community that I really enjoy being in and that has deep connections to my roots in Setomaa. Maria and I got our ticket and walked into the festival grounds. It was big, with a stage in front of us and some wonderful little shops next to us. As we were walking in they were doing some speeches about the day and its significance. It was nice to hear about this and I found out they don’t do it every year so this was even more special. After we listened to the official information I wondered over to the shops to look for a few things for mum’s Seto Rahvariide. There were so many beautiful ribbons and belts, including bottle belts, which I know how to make. It was so beautiful seeing all of this. I then saw an old friend again, the man who made mum’s big broach. He was working on a current design and he told me true Seto ones are not symmetrical in the images that are on each part. This is how you know it is a Seto one. Dad told mum the other day he was going to go home and inspect her one to see if it is Seto or not. I also found Ingrit, who does the head pieces that mum is looking for and we organised one to order, which is very special for me. With my English speaking and some Estonian, I caught the attention of some British travellers who wondered if I could help them. So I had to ask a lady how much some material was per metre, and I did it all in Estonian. I was very proud of myself. I then shared some information about Setomaa as they were curious of the historical significance of this area and why there was a festival here on this day. They were so excited to hear some information about it as they wanted to come here to get some real Estonian experience. Maria and I then sat and listened to some of the beautiful music for a little bit and before we knew it, it was almost 2pm! We wondered over to the food tents and we got some traditional Estonian food! They had Seto Pirukad, Seto puder (a savory porridge made with barley and potato, the one in Muhu is UNESCO heritage listed), and this one was just as good. We got some Estonian garlic bread and of course, some home made honeycake. This is my favourite cake, thankfully I can make it but it takes a lot of time. I was so proud I could order all my things in Estonian! During our time eating lunch and spending time at the festival I saw some old friends and had to speak Estonian to them as they did not speak English. It was so healing to reconnect with these ladies, one in particular who I had wonderful experiences with when she was teaching us how to card weave. She asked me if I was still doing it, I said no but I really should, I have the tools. I also shared with her that I have wanted to tell her for years now that day was like spending the day with my grandmother, learning some old Seto crafts, which I wrote about two years ago, and I was grateful I was able to tell her now. I could sense the emotion in the air and she gave me such a warm and beautiful hug, it made me very emotional but in the most beautiful of ways. After this we notice that there was some more singing and dancing on the stage and we wandered over to watch. As we were watching the dancing we notice that behind the audience there was a group of people also doing the same dance, so it must have been some sort of a village dance. I really wanted to try and be part of the village dance but Maria did not want to but that was OK, so we continue to watch and it was really beautiful seeing how everyone just participates in these traditions, it felt really wholesome. During this time I ran into a friend's sister who came in spoke to us a little bit more about the traditions and significance of this day. We were talking about the handicrafts of Setomaa and how we were trying to get some pieces, and she shared with us that all of the good stuff for Setomaa culture is in Petseri, which is still in Russia. She explained you need to spend 250 euro for one day to go to Russia so a lot of people will drive to Koidula and just walk there. Katarina is living only 1km from the boarder and at night when it is dark she can see the nights of the city in Petseri. I would LOVE to go there one day, as it used to be the heart of Setomaa and where my roots are, but I do not think this is possible. We then headed to the museum shop to see if there was anything there of interest, and I got myself a small Seto design leather wallet. It was so pretty. The lady in the shop remembered me from a few years ago. It really does give me a sense of being in community there with so many people knowing me and recognising me. 

​We then left Setomaa, but as we were I was in awe of the forests and tress there, there really is something magical about Setomaa, I just adore being there. After I dropped Maria off I headed back to Monica and Indrek’s house we had a big family party. We found out they only gather like this when we come from Australia. My auntie Tiiu was also here, with her friends Anne and Erik. It was so nice connecting with our family and seeing people I had not seen in more than 10 years, like Hendrik. I remember taking care of him when he was 4 and 6 years old, he couldn’t speak English and I could hardly speak Estonian. We were sharing some of the stories with his girlfriend. They are both studying to be Doctors and we were having some wonderful conversations about the nursing and medical profession. I found out most of their information is in English so there is a possibility for me to come here one day and teach nursing perhaps? It was so good seeing dad with his cousins Indrek and Taavo. The three of them just have the best time together, being a little mischievous and basically talking shit. There is a reason why Toivo (dad) is in Australia because they do drink to much but also I feel the three of them would get up to a lot of mischief! Indrek said if Toivo lived here, they would do this every day! Taavo was telling dad about all the renovations he needs done and dad wanted to go there for a week and do them. He has organised to do some renovations at Indrek’s house, dad is a builder. We continued to party on throughout the night, sharing stories, memories and really reconnecting with family, it was lovely.
Until tomorrow
Marissa xx