Day 24 - Becoming a Shoe Maker

​Well today was very interesting! It started off with our Master Inne talking to us about the history of pastlad (peasant shoes) and I had no idea how many differences there were between the shoes and the counties! It was incredible. She had some really old shoes where the leather had hardened and some for little kids. It was so adorable and I really would like to be able to make smaller shoes some day soon, maybe for Lekso, when he starts to do folk dancing. Inne also told us they used to make bark shoes when they needed them but they would not last very long so if they took long journeys, they would be making the next pair they needed as they walked. Inne shared with us that we were going to finish our pair of shoes by the end of the day, so we thought we better get a move on and start working on them!

​We started by measuring out the template Inne made us to make sure it is the right size. Then we had to find out bit of leather for both shoes. There were such variations in thickness in the piece of leather she had for us, but my shoes were mostly even thickness all the way through, except for one of the heels. We then cut out the template and initially we used these amazing scissors she had received as a gift for graduating. They were made in Japan and designed to cut leather. They were so heavy. I then had to indent all the holes which I would later use to stitch the shoes together in one way or another. When I was doing this process I remember thinking, this would have taken ages and people really would have become Masters of their crafts all those years ago, because it was every day things they were making and things they needed. Now we can just go to a shop and buy a new pair of shoes when we want it, not when we need it and it doesn’t matter, but back then not everyone had them because it was dependant on the ability to get leather and have someone know how to create a shoe.

Once I had done all the holes, I had to make the slits for around the shoe. I started doing the slits thinking I was doing it well but then I checked and I was not going all the way through the back so I had to redo almost half of the ones I had completed and I had almost finished one side. Then I had to stitch the heel of the shoe and oh my gosh do you need some strength to do that! This is a two person job. Inne held my shoe as I pulled the strings, using gloves, wrapping the linen around my fingers to pull. We almost pulled each other over, it was insane. I really had to get the back of it as tight as possible then hit it down to make it flat. We then did the other shoe and this was just as hard, you really need some weatbix to do this! I then put the linen thread through the top of the shoe and then, you guessed it, we had to pull that one in too! Thankfully the top of my shoe was a lot easier as the leather was a bit thinner. I was surprised the difference it made. I then had to flatten down the top so that there were no bits sticking between my toes or irritating my foot. It was kind of fun using a mallet to hammer down leather to shape my shoe. This had me wondering how they did it back in the day. What kind of tools they used and how they even developed the tools to use to make these shoes, as they are not overly easy. Inne did tell us that they would often use water to soften the leather but she wanted to avoid doing this so that we could treat it by the end of the day and be dry by the next day for the display.

​I then started to weave the leather through the sides of the shoe, starting at the toe end, using a bobby pin as a needle. I had to get to a particular point and measure it on my foot then weave in the straps. For me it was the ninth weave (putting here for future reference) where I had to attach the strap that goes over the foot. Inne shared with us that this is the first time she has been part of creating the modern version of the Paslad, as we didn’t have enough time to do the traditional strapping, which is long and is designed to wrap around the foot and leg. I thought it was pretty cool having something a bit more unique. We used these little clamps to help hold the tension on the leather string so that if we pulled it, it wouldn’t all release again and then I would run out of leather. Once I had strung both sides of the shoe, I had to finish pulling it through and gathering the sides. I pulled so hard on one side that the leather string snapped! Inne shared with us that this has never happened before. She reassured me that I wasn’t pulling to hard, there was a weak point in the leather and the leather on the shoe in that area was particularly thick. I was still a bit hesitant to do it on the other shoe, but anyway. Inne managed to fix it up so I didn’t have to re do that who weaving process on that shoe and managed to make sure I had enough leather to finish it off. We did however, do it differently to everyone else’s because of the lack of leather. So I proceeded to do the other shoe and when it came to pulling it, I did ask Inne to do it for me, because I didn’t want the same thing to happen. We managed to gather the shoe and make them both the correct size. Now instead of gluing the straps, which she usually does, she stitched mine in. She is curious to see how it goes. I really hope they hold!!

I then had to choose a nööp (button) for my shoes. Inne told us she basically cleared out the store of buttons so we had a range of choices. I went for a nice ruby red looking one, no surprises there, and proceeded to learn how to sew my first button!! I think Inne had a little giggle to herself that I had never sewed a button onto anything previously but hey, first time for everything! Once the button was on, we had to cut the slit. Once we had done that we had to cut the excess leather off it and making sure there was enough room to increase the slit if needed in the future. Then, last but not least, we had to condition the leather and let it dry over night. I was so proud of my shoes and impressed we got to finish them that day! Inne was an amazing teacher and we had a wonderful interpreter too. I was so grateful for that experience and it was incredible to be able to make peasant shoes, like they did in the old days. What I really liked about that experience was we were all working in our own little worlds, but collectively as a group, with a common goal of finishing our shoes. It was a beautiful experience.

​After a days work we got dressed up to go to the closing dinner. Before we did, when we arrived to the function hall, I realised it was close to the family swing I had been wanting to go on all week! I low key convinced Richard to come on it with me. This swing brings back so many memories for me, from when I was growing up and even to four years ago. We would only ever come to Viljandi to come to the castle ruins and to go on that swing. Last time we were here it was so good, we had me, Shaun, Les, Danae, Kim and Dad working the swing and we got it pretty high. This time Richard and I struggled to get it going. It wasn’t until we sat down at our table we realised how to do it. One of us would have to do a running jump onto the swing at its low point to get it started. Never mind, the point is we got on it and had a go.

​We then headed to the dinner, where Mum and Ingrid were already inside. It was so lovely, there were these two musicians playing some old Estonian Folk songs. There was one song I thought I recognised and I did! It was “Tantsukingad” but with a different tempo! I was so excited, shame I didn’t actually know the dance well enough to get up and dance it. They did however get us up to dance a few times in circles and asked us to do a relander step. No one knew what that was but me and Merit demonstrated. We also did some “Karajaan” at the end of the night, it was wonderful. I had a lot of fun having some wonderful conversations with Michele. Strangely she taught me about American Politics and I never realised how messed up they were until that conversation. I am grateful I had it. The organisers had photos from previous years craft camps and it was a really nice vibe. I really enjoyed myself. After the party, a few of us were going to go back on the swing but there were people on it so we ended up talking about life in Sweden and a range of other things. We then walked back to the accommodation. On the way I looked at a window display of real estate in Southern Estonia, and it is actually achievable to purchase land here! Something to consider…

​Over all I had a really good day and really enjoyed learning yet another new craft. Hopefully I can replicate it and make some more pastlad in the future, that would be pretty cool.
Until tomorrow
Marissa xx